Superstar Chef Daniel Boulud pairs up with America's Finest Sommelier-Daniel Johnnes
Story and photos by Christopher J. Davies,Wine Country International magazine
New York superstar chef Daniel Boulud has built a culinary empire in the course of his illustrious twenty-four year career in the US. Today, he is the chef-owner of some of the nation's finest restaurants: Daniel, Cafe Boulud, DB Bistro Moderne and Daniel Boulud Brasserie, with locations in Manhattan, Palm Beach and Las Vegas. His Feast & Fetes is a catering company operated by Daniel restaurant in Manhattan and DB Connoisseur is a supplier of caviar and salmon. He is also author of numerous cookbooks and creator of kitchenware and gourmet products. Chef Boulud is a frequent television and radio guest, a generous donor and supporter of charitable organizations, as well as a guest instructor and lecturer.
Sommelier Daniel Johnnes joined Chef Boulud's corporate entity, the Dinex Group, in September 2005. In his new role, he oversees the company's entire wine program, guiding the restaurant's team of sommeliers. He is responsible for supervising the cellars, training, creating unique wine events and ensuring that the service is unsurpassed.
"Johnnes combines great American spirit with a profound knowledge and love of French wine," explains Boulud. "Our love for what we do, and the way it is fused into every aspect of our lives, creates a bond of camaraderie and mutual respect between us."
Daniel Johnnes served as wine director at Montrachet for almost two decades. One of Manhattan's legendary French restaurants, Montrachet has a reputation for having the "best Burgundy list in America." During his career, Johnnes has been the recipient of numerous awards and citations, including the James Beard Foundation award for Outstanding Wine Service in 1995. Wine Advocate publisher and wine 'god' Robert Parker describes Daniel Johnnes as " our nation's finest (and nicest) sommelier."
Johnnes became an author in 1996 when he published his consumer guide, "Daniel Johnnes's Top 200 Wines, an Expert's Guide to Maximum Enjoyment for Your Dollar." He is also the owner of his own wine importing company, Jeroboam Wines, specializing in France's most serious and innovative producers.
Daniel Boulud and Daniel Johnnes have recently surprised the wine world by undertaking a completely "attitude-free" approach to wine, with an exciting new wine packaged in a tube called "dtour." It contains a delicious, vibrant Chardonnay from Mcon Villages. A Rhone red will be released later this year.
Both men received major industry recognition on May 8, 2006, when they were awarded 2006 James Beard Foundation Awards. Daniel Boulud received the "Outstanding Restaurateur" award. Daniel Johnnes received the "Outstanding Wine & Spirits Professional" award.
The Interview
WCI founders Christopher & Darcy Davies recently interviewed Daniel Boulud and Daniel Johnnes on "America's Dining and Travel Guide," broadcast on The Business Talk Radio Network with Chef Pierre Wolfe.
Pierre Wolfe
"Bonjour Daniel!"
"Could you have achieved the status that you earned in this amount of time in America in your native France? "
Daniel Boulud
"I am not sure, but I would have spent the time and energy trying to. When I came to America twenty-five years ago there was only city that I wanted to work in, that was New York. I felt that I had the energy and stamina and young talent. But I had to prove to New Yorkers that I was good enough for them. I think that I worked very hard for it. It is clear that nothing is taken for granted. And twenty-five years later, we take our restaurant so seriously, our customers seriously and our wine program seriously. And if I am a superstar in cooking, I am proud that Daniel Johnnes is the superstar in wine."
Daniel Johnnes
"You asked if Daniel Boulud would have had the same success in France? I can tell you that he would have had success anywhere in the world. The amount of energy and enthusiasm that he puts into it is contagious to his staff as well as his clientele. That's what contributes to his being a success. That goes everywhere, not just New York."
Christopher Davies
"Daniel Boulud, you have a new restaurant in Las Vegas?"
Daniel Boulud
"Yes. It's a new brasserie. It's more casual than DB Bistro in New York City. It's on a larger scale on the Lake of Dreams at the Wynn Resort. Steve Wynn opened the hotel a year ago. I am very proud to be associated with him. It's called Daniel Boulud Brasserie. It's very much in the tradition of a brasserie, with the sophistication of a good chef offering convenient service and a very friendly atmosphere. The cuisine is very approachable. We offer wonderful meat dishes as well as 'Fruits de Mer Plateau,' a seafood casserole in the great tradition of brasserie."
Pierre Wolfe
"I cruise all over the world. And food is a major part of the cruise experience. I believe that you are an advisor to one of the major cruise lines?"
(Note: Daniel Boulud was a chef consultant for Cunard's mammoth luxury liner Queen Mary 2)
Daniel Boulud
"I was, but I gave my hat to somebody else. Sometimes it is important to think, is this the right thing for me? Is this the right thing for my staff? I myself ask if maybe the ship was too big? Maybe I was not able to dedicate enough time to it, so I left my position there. But since then, besides food, my passion mostly lay on wine. And I really want to say that with Daniel Johnnes, we've done some amazing things with wine. We have known each for a long time."
Daniel Johnnes
"Over twenty years!"
Christopher Davies
"Daniel Johnnes, you joined with Daniel Boulud in December?"
Daniel Johnnes
"That's right. It has only been a few months. I can say that this has been a great opportunity for me. But I am having so much fun and excitement working with Daniel Boulud. With the amount of time that we spend in this business, that's important! If you are not having fun doing, first of all you can't do a good job. And you would be just wasting your time, because there is so much work involved."
Christopher Davies
"I've been hearing a lot of good things out of New York about the extraordinary wine events that you guys are pulling off. Can you tell me what's different about your approach?"
Daniel Johnnes
"I think that there is a great deal of interest in wine today among consumers on all levels. Even on the very, very top end, to wines that are accessible to people. People are very knowledgeable and passionate about wine. What we are trying to do is to bring events to people that are exciting and innovative. Sometimes they are very expensive and rare, these could be the last bottles remaining on the planet. In other cases, it could be something that is educational and more accessible to people. The most important is to showcase our enthusiasm for wine...they appreciate that."
Darcy Davies
"This new dtour wine looks like a very interesting project. In America, as you know, people are very familiar with 'box wine.' But this actually 'bag in a tube wine' which I think is unique. I love the packaging. What is your philosophy for bringing this wine to the US?
Daniel Boulud
"We want to be known as approachable people. And we knew that we could make delicious, affordable wine."
Daniel Johnnes
"I think that is it! That is the key! There are three people involved in this project. Daniel Boulud, Dominique Lafon, the winemaker, and myself. We have spent our careers associated with fine dining and somewhat exclusive wines. But we are also people that love wine of good value. And we love more informal experiences as well.
"We want to show people a new approach to great wine. Maybe take a 'detour' from the normal way of appreciating wine and buying wine. All three of us are saying it is ok to try wine in a box. We put our wine in a tube because it is big hurdle to overcome for people that enjoy wine. People have a stereotype about what wine is."
Daniel Boulud
"And also that's why we call it dtour because it is really taking a detour from ordinary box wine."
Darcy Davies
"The packaging reflects that very well. It is sexy looking."
Daniel Boulud
"And Daniel and Dominique the made sure the wine was good. And I put my stamp of approval to make sure that it is better than a typical Chardonnay. It is a fresh, crisp, young, affordable wine that you can drink every day."
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For information about Daniel Boulud's restaurants visit his website: www.danielnyc.com
To listen to the full interview with Daniel Boulud & Daniel Johnnes, please visit www.winecountrynetwork.com
This article with photographs appears in the Fall 2006 issue of Wine Country International magazine